Kannen pinnapultteihin, kiristämiseen ja jälkikiristämiseen liittyvä keskustelu ja lainaus maailmalta (ei kerro kenen pinnapultteja käytetään, viitaataan ARP, mutta keskustelussa myös Raceware):
edit:
ARP:n audi T5 pinnapulttisarjan prikat ovat halkaisijaltaan pienehköjä ja kovalla kiristyksellä ne "uppoavat" alumiinikanteen. Hyvän korvikeprikan saa sahaamalla vanhan joustavan pinnapultin poikki ja käyttää vanhaa aluslevyä.
http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/view...c8c55e34217876
" I'm also using the standard non undercut studs. Here's how I do the install
1. Tighten hand tight with your wrench in the factory torque pattern.
2. Use a torque wrench an go to 40 ft lbs in the factory pattern
3. Now go to 75 ft lbs in the factory pattern.
4. Loosen nut #1 1/4 turn, then re-torque back to 75 ft lbs. Move to nut #2 and contiue down the line in the factory torque pattern. You'll find that the nuts will tighten down a little more than they were before.
5. repeat step 4, you should now feel the nuts really clamping down, and should not take any additional turn of the wrench.
Do this and I have found that it's not even neccessary to heat cycle the motor and re-torque. I found this writeup somewhere on ARP's site, but cannot for the life of me find it again. I don't think most people do this, and I actually had problems until I followed this. It makes sense because when you apply the massive torque to the stock head bolts, they stretch and compensate for flex in the head while torqueing. "
Racewaren ohjeista T5 20v (sopiva alusprikka paketissa):
***********************************
Raceware RTE-1034 fastening torque specification
- clean the treads in block
- install the studs to block with teflon based liquid pipe sealant on the coarse threads of the stud
- do not use liquid thread locker !
- hand tighten the studs to block until they bottom
- with tool RTE-9010 you can easily install the studs when head is allready installed
- use reqular engine oil 20w-50 or straight 30-50 (NO oil additives, no synt or teflon based lubes) in lubricating the threads, washer and nut
- washer to be installed with inside bevel towards facing the nut
- stretch in three increments
- step 1 25 ft / lbs (25 ft.lbs. equals 33.90 Nm.)
- step 2 40 ft / lbs (40 ft.lbs. equals 54.24 Nm.)
- step 3 50 ft / lbs (FINAL TORQUE) (50 ft.lbs. equals 67.80 Nm.)
Muunnostaulukoita:
http://www.isokinetics.net/basics/conversions.htm
http://www.merkle-korff.com/technical_advice.asp?id=48
- runn the engine untill it reaches normal operating temperature then shut it off and [COLOR="Red"][COLOR="Black"]allow to cool to 20C and then retorque the nuts to 50 ft / lbs[/COLOR][/COLOR]
ARP:n ja racewaren momentit olivat hieman erilaiset. Kuka muistaa ARP-arvot ?
ARP catalog
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
VOLKSWAGEN/ AUDI
104-6001
104-6002
104-6003
104-6004
104-6005
104-6007
204-6006
edit:
ARP:n audi T5 pinnapulttisarjan prikat ovat halkaisijaltaan pienehköjä ja kovalla kiristyksellä ne "uppoavat" alumiinikanteen. Hyvän korvikeprikan saa sahaamalla vanhan joustavan pinnapultin poikki ja käyttää vanhaa aluslevyä.
http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/view...c8c55e34217876
" I'm also using the standard non undercut studs. Here's how I do the install
1. Tighten hand tight with your wrench in the factory torque pattern.
2. Use a torque wrench an go to 40 ft lbs in the factory pattern
3. Now go to 75 ft lbs in the factory pattern.
4. Loosen nut #1 1/4 turn, then re-torque back to 75 ft lbs. Move to nut #2 and contiue down the line in the factory torque pattern. You'll find that the nuts will tighten down a little more than they were before.
5. repeat step 4, you should now feel the nuts really clamping down, and should not take any additional turn of the wrench.
Do this and I have found that it's not even neccessary to heat cycle the motor and re-torque. I found this writeup somewhere on ARP's site, but cannot for the life of me find it again. I don't think most people do this, and I actually had problems until I followed this. It makes sense because when you apply the massive torque to the stock head bolts, they stretch and compensate for flex in the head while torqueing. "
Racewaren ohjeista T5 20v (sopiva alusprikka paketissa):
***********************************
Raceware RTE-1034 fastening torque specification
- clean the treads in block
- install the studs to block with teflon based liquid pipe sealant on the coarse threads of the stud
- do not use liquid thread locker !
- hand tighten the studs to block until they bottom
- with tool RTE-9010 you can easily install the studs when head is allready installed
- use reqular engine oil 20w-50 or straight 30-50 (NO oil additives, no synt or teflon based lubes) in lubricating the threads, washer and nut
- washer to be installed with inside bevel towards facing the nut
- stretch in three increments
- step 1 25 ft / lbs (25 ft.lbs. equals 33.90 Nm.)
- step 2 40 ft / lbs (40 ft.lbs. equals 54.24 Nm.)
- step 3 50 ft / lbs (FINAL TORQUE) (50 ft.lbs. equals 67.80 Nm.)
Muunnostaulukoita:
http://www.isokinetics.net/basics/conversions.htm
http://www.merkle-korff.com/technical_advice.asp?id=48
- runn the engine untill it reaches normal operating temperature then shut it off and [COLOR="Red"][COLOR="Black"]allow to cool to 20C and then retorque the nuts to 50 ft / lbs[/COLOR][/COLOR]
ARP:n ja racewaren momentit olivat hieman erilaiset. Kuka muistaa ARP-arvot ?
ARP catalog
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
VOLKSWAGEN/ AUDI
104-6001
104-6002
104-6003
104-6004
104-6005
104-6007
204-6006
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